El Camino de Santiago

Having first learned about the Camino de Santiago de Compostela my senior year at the University of Oregon, I was intrigued by the concept. It wasn’t until I found out that I would be living in Galicia just an hour away from Santiago I realized that it could become a part of my reality.

The Camino consists of a large web of ancient pilgrimage routes which span across Europe and meet at the tomb of Saint James in the city of Santiago de Compostela. For centuries, the Way brought many people from across the globe to seek help from the Saint. Today, even more people make the trek to Santiago. While most make the pilgrimage for religious reasons, today the Camino poses as a social, touristic, cultural, and athletic, draw for those looking to push their bodies and spirits. Along the Way, pilgrims must carry passports which must be stamped daily to prove the distance they have traveled. Once they reach the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, pilgrims must then have their passports validated wherein they receive their official Compostela recognizing their pilgrimage.

While there are many routes around Europe and Spain to reach Santiago de Compostela, I was on a limited timeframe during my week off for Semana Santa. So, between the 14th and 19th of April, I planned on completing El Camino Inglés alone while spanning 114 kilometers — about 70 miles — beginning in Ferrol. I planned my route in five stages to Santiago, with the longest of them being 30 kilometers. During my camino I learned a lot about what it means to do a pilgrimage as well as what that kind of undertaking meant to me. I met so many incredible and generous people along the Way and I will be forever grateful for the kindness I encountered.

DAY 1 ~ Ferrol to Pontedeume

With my backpack in tow and my scallop shell fastened tightly on, I caught my early-morning taxi to the bus station. On the drive to the bus station, I started up a conversation with my driver and soon enough we started talking about the Camino and why I was taking on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. I had been asked that very same question many times during the months prior, but I never felt certain about my answer as to “why” I was doing it. However, I think at that moment I was unsure why exactly I was about to walk 114 kilometers — 70 miles — in 5 days…I guess I was doing it to find out!

After a pensive start to my morning, I paid my driver and waited for my bus to Ferrol inside the station. While waiting, I met a couple of other pilgrims from Norway and Ireland who were planning the same trip as I. Together, they had completed many different routes of the Camino all over Spain. Over the course of the three and a half hours it took to arrive in Ferrol, we got to know one another and I attempted to learn quickly from their past experiences. As we talked, whatever sense of nervousness I had felt beforehand began to fade — there was no going back!

I arrived in Ferrol just after 11am and parted ways with the couple I had met on the bus with plans to meet back up later. Along my walk to the beginning of the Camino near the port, I met with a group of older men from Malaga and we got our first sellos together inside a café near the station. We found the route of the Camino together, but while they decided to begin from that point, I left them to find the empieza real a couple kilometers in the other direction. With help from locals, I finally found the beginning landmark of my journey, officially documented my trip with a sello from the tourist office, and began my long walk to Santiago.

It was 11:45am when I finally began my camino, which is quite late in comparison to other travelers on the Way. My first segment of the Camino between Ferrol and Potedeume stretched 25 kilometers — 15.5 miles. Although it was a long day, I had no worries to rush myself and make it to Pontedeume early as I had an Airbnb booked for the evening. That being said, I was able to take my time and really take in the Galician landscape and culture.

It just so happened that Ferrol is known to hold some of the most extravagant celebrations for Semana Santa in Galicia. I was lucky enough to catch one of the largest parades for the holiday while making my way through the city center. All around the city, children carried dried palm leaves, the sound of drums and Galician bagpipes echoed throughout the streets, and many people wore the traditional capirotes —pointed hats — and robes. Reminiscent of the KKK, the traditional dress for Semana Santa in Spain for the Nazarenes bears no connection to the hate group.

Picking my way through the crowds of people, I stopped to enjoy the festivities, take pictures, and ask questions about what was taking place. However, it wasn’t long before I left the bustling city center and followed the yellow arrows along the bay. Much like Vigo, the waterfront of Ferrol took on a more industrial vibe. As I walked along the path, I eventually made my way around the peninsula and found myself walking through many green parks which hugged the edge of the water. Around 1:30pm I passed the first two pilgrims — a mother and daughter from Germany — I had seen all day on the Camino eating lunch near the train tracks. I continued on for a while and soon after decided to take a break in the shade and eat my own lunch.

I arrived at my halfway point for the day in the city of Neda at 2:45pm. I stopped in for a drink and a short rest at the Tienda Meson. Even though I was the only girl and easily 40 years younger than anyone else in the bar, I easily struck up a conversation with the bartender and a few others seated near me. When it was time for me to get back on the road, a nice man who I talked to for a little bit paid for my drink and wished me luck. I sure needed all the luck as I could get, because the next section of my walk was a long and steep hike up and over the ridge.

Tender footed and thoroughly exhausted from a long day, I arrived in Pontedeume just after 6:30pm. The city was positioned alongside an estuary and you had to cross a long bridge in order to reach the center. The city itself was situated on a hill and — of course — my Airbnb for the night was at the very top. I decided to get it over with and immediately headed to my Airbnb. However, because my host wasn’t around, I had to walk back down the hill to a café below where I picked up the keys from her friend. Finally, after a long day I hopped in the shower and put on some clean clothes.

I had found from research earlier on that I should visit La Iglesia de Santiago while in Pontedeume. I arrived a little before the nightly mass and was able to meet with the priest. He gave me a sello to mark the end of my journey for the first day and we talked for a long while. One thing that struck me was that he mentioned that the Camino is something that you feel more than what you do. Relating the pilgrimage to a parachute, doing the Camino opens your mind to exactly who you are. The only way to really see that parachute open — like your mind — is to take the jump. He also mentioned about how the Camino acts as a balance. Something bad one day during your journey will bring about something good the next. Although I was filled with great advice and many things to think about before turning in for the night, my stomach happened to be quite empty. I thanked the priest for his words and he recommended a cosy place to pick up a hot meal right down the road at the Restauraunte Compostella. There I ordered a hot Galician stew and an empanada to curb my hunger and treated myself to a nice cold glass of tinto verano. Having sat outside, I happened to flag down the couple I had met on the bus earlier that morning. We congratulated each other on completing a difficult first day and soon parted ways with hopes to see each other on the Way the following morning. With that, I paid my bill, clambered back to my Airbnb for the night, and slept like the dead.

DAY 2 ~ Pontedeume to Betanzos

Waking up on day two I was full of excitement as to what was to come. A shorter segment than yesterday, I planned to walk the 20 kilometers — 12.5 miles — from Pontedeueme to Betanzos. Wanting to get an early start, I quickly packed my bag and was out the door just as the sun was coming up at 8:30am. There just so happened to be a pilgrim stretching on the rail right outside, so we walked together for a minute or two before we caught up with her husband just up the road. The couple — as well as their daughter who her dad carried on his back — were from Brazil. I was beyond impressed that they managed to do the camino with their three-year-old, and we ended up walking together for an hour or so.

There were many people on the Way that morning and most of the time while I walked, I was either passing people or they were passing me. After crossing through a local golf course, I started chatting with José who was traveling with a group from Jaén in Andulucía. We walked together for roughly 10 kilometers talking and sharing about our lives. During our walk, we did run into about an hour and half of heavy rains. We stopped briefly to put on our rain pants, jackets, cover our packs, and pull out our umbrellas. Although walking in the rain wasn’t my favorite part of the trip, it was a special experience to share with a new friend. Before long, we stopped at the halfway point inside a café in Miño. There, José bought me a café con leche and I met the rest of his travel companions. Inside the café there were many other pilgrims resting, including the couple from the day before.

Once everyone was well rested and warm, I decided to continue on with José’s group for the rest of the day. So, for the next 10 kilometers, I walked with José, Encarna, and Sebastián. While we spoke mostly in Spanish during our walk, I Encarna told me that she was a primary school teacher and happened to be attending English classes at the Escuela Oficial de Idiomas — where I work in Vigo — back in Jaén. We joked that after speaking so much English and Spanish with each other that day, our compostellas in Santiago should come with a level B2.2 accreditation!

Although shorter in distance, the Camino felt surprisingly shorter than the previous day. I believe I was very lucky to have had such a great group to share it with. Once we arrived in Betanzos, we all sat together at a café and had a round of beers to celebrate the conclusion of our day. As I researched availability for my sleeping arrangement for the night at the local albergue, I realized I was in a little bit of trouble. The city’s albergue — reduced price hostels for pilgrims — which normally housed over 40 pilgrims was under construction and only had 6 beds to offer…all of which were already taken. However, my friends helped me find out that the city was offering free accommodation within the city’s sport complex due to the construction. Confident that was my best option for the night, they invited me to have lunch with their entire group back at their hotel as well as offered to let me use their shower. I gratefully agreed and followed them to check-in.

For lunch, we had an amazing meal of croquetas, french fries, salad, chicken, potatoes, and beans, along with a sweet dessert of arroz con leche. It also happened to be one of their companion’s birthdays, so we celebrated with cake and champaign. The entire time, the group made me feel like I was one of their own and made sure I was taken care of. After all of the excitement and a hot shower, José and Sebastián walked me to the sports center and helped me get set in for the night. To this day, I feel extremely lucky and blessed to have met people like this along my Camino. Everyone was very eager to help me in any way I needed and they never let me pay my share even when I had cash in hand. José was especially caring. I know that he has a daughter just a few years older than me, so I like to think he was just looking out for me as he would his daughter.

Inside the sports center, which was really a basketball court covered with sheet metal, I was able to grab one of the last foam mats to lay down on. As the next day was my longest yet, I decided to spend the rest of the evening relaxing and getting to bed early. However, while it may have been my plan to get some rest, it was not the same plan of the group of 75 people who showed up at 8pm. Knowing that I wasn’t going to be able to go to bed early, I hung out with a couple girls from Germany who were a few years older than me. We shared some dinner snacks and had some fun complaining about the lack of sleep we anticipated to get that night. Finally, around 11pm, they cut the lights and we were all able to go to bed.

DAY 3 ~ Betanzos to Hospital de Bruma

Just as I had predicted, I didn’t get much sleep that night inside the sports center. However, like the scale the priest in Pontedeume told me about, it didn’t happen to be the worst thing. Day three was the hardest of them yet. I had 30 kilometers planned to travel — 18 miles — between Betanzos and Hospital de Bruma. Not only was it the largest distance on the camino, but there was a big complication as well upon arrival in Bruma. Being that the sole albergue in Hospital only had 20 beds, the longest day was also a race for housing. So, due to the fact that I wasn’t really sleeping anyways, I decided to get on the road even earlier and start walking in the dark. I left the sports center just past 7am and made my way back to the city center to try and find the way of the Camino once again. I happened to see other pilgrims doing the same thing, so I asked them for directions. Little did I know that was the very same group who I would stick close to for the rest of my time on the Camino. The group was made up with friends from Portugal and another solo-hiker a little older than me named Stephanie from Germany. I was soon given the nickname Ryanair — same as a popular airline company here in Europe — and I stuck by their side from then on. Stephanie and I walked pretty much the entire day together which made the long and difficult journey that much easier. She had so many quirky stories and she just so happened to be getting her masters in Granada at the moment. We got along very well telling stories and laughing at our own stupid jokes.

We stopped as a group at the halfway point for our day at a small backwoods café at Mesón Museo for an early lunch and quick rest. The café sold huge slices of orange cake which filled our cravings for the moment. While our companions from Portugal were staying at a hotel off the Camino, Stephanie and I decided to leave them and continue alone to hopefully make it to the albergue before it was full. We continued walking at a quicker pace only stopping occasionally for a snack or water. The Way was especially difficult due to the fact that the majority of it was uphill, however we were walking along dirt country paths and gorgeous green scenery — it was hard to complain!

Thankfully, we arrived at the auberge in Hospital de Bruma early just before 2:30pm. However, when we arrived, we found out that were was only one bed left! Being that the closest lodgings were a car ride away and four times as expensive, we convinced the owner to let us share one of the small beds. In the spirit of the Camino, we were faced with a balance between good and bad. Nevertheless, we did not let it keep us down. Thankful for at the very least a place to sleep for the night, we unpacked our bags, showered, and then laid out in the grass alongside other pilgrims to rest and enjoy the afternoon sun.

Stephanie and I decided to get an early dinner across the street at the only restaurant within miles. From their special Pilgrim’s Menu of the day I ordered Galician stew, pork chop with potatoes, and a cookie custard for dessert. The entire meal was delicious and perfectly hit the spot. Afterwards, I soaked my feet in the cold water of a stream that ran by the albergue before I went inside to rest and read from the Spanish version of Marco Polo that was left by a past pilgrim. Soon after a group from a city outside of Sevilla joined me and we chatted for a bit about our journeys so far.

To finish off the night, Stephanie and I returned to the restaurant and ordered a cup of tea to enjoy as we talked and watched the sky grow darker. As we settled in for the night, I already knew that sharing the bed would tough, but I was also confident that it would be much better than the night before. It wasn’t long before I was out cold.

DAY 4 ~ Hospital de Bruma to Sigüeiro

Stephanie and I woke up early along with the other pilgrims as the sun was coming up and left around 7:40am. Today was much more relaxed than the previous ones. Stephanie and I had planned to walk the 24 kilometers — 15 miles — from Hospital de Bruma to Sigüeiro. After walking for a bit, we stopped inside one of the first cafés we found which had a ginormous statue of Saint James positioned outside. Much to our surprise, inside the café we happened to find our Portuguese travel companions from the day before.

That morning we all walked together until we reached our halfway point where we stopped for lunch. I ordered a large slice of tortilla española along with a Coca Cola which hit the spot. While our friends wanted to wait for a couple of stragglers at the café, they told Stephanie and I to continue on towards Sigüeiro where we all happened to be spending the night in the same albergue. The walk along the Camino was a good mix of hiking on paved roads and forest paths, however the last section before we reached the city was right up against a busy highway…not the prettiest views. During the last few kilometers and through a little bit of rain, Stephanie and I walked with a couple from the UK as well as another couple from Portugal. We all helped each other find our lodgings for the night and then parted ways.

Stephanie and I arrived at the Albergue Camino Real around 3:30pm where we were able to shower and rest for a while before our companions arrived. About two hours later, the rest of our group showed up and went to a café nearby for lunch. Stephanie wanted to rest, so I joined them for a warm meal. During my late lunch of eggs, potatoes, and chicken, they tried to teach me some Portuguese while we talked about our day.

When we returned to the albergue, it had started to pour buckets outside. I made some tea for Stephanie and I and we sat in the common area talking with our friends. We spent the rest of the evening attempting to learn a Portuguese card game called Bisca, laughing, and enjoying each other’s company. A few of their friends arrived later that night and planned to finish the camino with them the next day. We all went out to a late dinner together to celebrate our accomplishments so far and for what was to come the following day on our walk to Santiago de Compostela.

Back at our albergue for the night, they invited Stephanie and I to join their group in prayer. While most of the group did not know English, the prayer was first said in Portuguese and then translated back into English for us. Listening to what everyone had to say about their past and current caminos, I began to understand what the Way actually means. I learned that while many of those first caminos were made for themselves — to see the countryside, be with friends, to challenge themselves —, now they do the Camino for others. I shared that while planning on doing the Camino many people had told me of how brave I was for doing it all alone. Nevertheless, that first day — although long and difficult — was alright for me. However, it was when I joined their group as well as other along the way, the time and kilometers seemed to fly by. I was beyond thankful for the kindness and company I had encountered along the Way. When I began the Camino, and even during the weeks before, I thought my reason for the pilgrimage was so that I would be able to be in nature and to complete something I had read and studied before in school. It wasn’t until listening to the others during this session that I came to the real reason why I did the Camino. For a long time I have become interested in the Catholic faith. Whether it had been studying it in school or visiting cathedrals and attending masses around the world, I found comfort in it. When I thought about religion — and how I still feel in a way — is that I won’t be able to fully embrace it. My mind tells me I am not meant for it, while my heart tells me that I have yet to receive that gift. However, walking the Camino is the closest I have ever felt to God. It wasn’t in the landscape, or the trail, or on the numerous steps of Santiago, I found Him in the people I met along the Way. The absolute care and love I felt while on my Camino was unlike anything I had experienced in the past. While I have yet to find God from above, I do think I was able to find his spirit in the people around me on the Way.

DAY 5 ~ Sigüeiro to Santiago de Compostela

The final leg to Santiago was only 15 kilometers, but that didn’t mean that we could sleep in. Stephanie and I woke up early at 5:45am so that we could arrive in Santiago just before noon for the Pilgrim’s Mass. We found ourselves outside just before 7am under a full moon. We walked through forest trails for most of the morning and finally reached the city limits of Santiago. Even though I have been living just an hour and a half from Santiago de Compostela in the months prior, I was so excited to see the city for the first time on my walk.

We finally reached the old city and the steps of the cathedral at 10:30am. Stephanie and I celebrated our huge accomplishment together and sat down in the square to marvel at the cathedral’s architecture and think about the many other pilgrims who came before us. Having reveled in our achievement, we were no where close to having completed our journey.

We left the square to receive our final sello and Compostela certificate from the Pilgrims Reception Office. Since we had arrived early, the we were able to be seen quickly. I actually was checked-in by a retired couple from Washington!

From there, we dropped off our bags at our hostel and went to La Iglesia de San Francisco for the pilgrim mass. Traditionally the mass is held within the main cathedral, however it has been under major construction and is only used for touristic reasons. Having filed into our pew for the mass, I was very impressed to see that the entire church had begun to be filled by pilgrims and backpacks lining the aisles. The mass for the day was altered slightly for the Easter program, but it did not take away from the reason why everyone inside were there that day.

As the mass ended, Stephanie and I decided to return to the Cathedral de Santiago to complete our journey as pilgrims. Inside, we paid our respects to the tomb of Saint James as well as gave a huge hug of gratitude to his golden statue on the high alter. I was disappointed that most of the alter was covered in metal scaffolding, however the feeling of completing my pilgrimage was the same — a relieving, but somber event.

We met back up with our Portuguese friends in front of the cathedral to celebrate our hard work and rest. As it was later in the afternoon, now there were hundreds of other pilgrims celebrating their arrival and resting their bodies in the square. When everyone was ready, we all went together for lunch at a local brewery. Afterwards, we all parted ways for the evening so I spent the rest of my afternoon walking around the city. Finally, after a long day I returned to my hostel for a hot shower and maybe a nap.

As I was settling into my room, I met a women from Germany who had been doing the Camino for 15 years! We talked for a long time about our experiences on the Way and what we had learned. She ended up having to leave a little early, but gave me an itinerary for the church’s events for the evening to celebrate Semana Santa. So, after a quick shower — and lacking a nap — I was able to make it back outside at 7:30 to watch the first procession of the evening. Much like that in Ferrol, members were dressed in traditional clothing and carried huge scenes from the bible.

Later that evening, I met back up with Stephanie and a few of her friends she had made along the way for drinks before that evening’s final procession at 11:30pm. Even though we were all exhausted, we found great company in each other! It didn’t feel long before it was time to find our place for the procession. This one was much more focused on penance and featured people carrying huge wooden crosses on their shoulders, walking barefoot through the streets, and dragging large chains from their ankles behind them. It was very unsettling to see so many people walk by, hooded from our view and the deafening hush that went over the crowd as they walked by. I felt very lucky to have been able to take part in the procession and see it with my own eyes to better understand the reasons behind it. On my way back to my hostel for the night, I saw the cathedral all lit up with soft orange light and we all made plans to meet back up in the morning for breakfast and to say goodbye.

DAY 6 ~ Santiago de Compostela to Home

I woke up at 8 — which felt like sleeping in at this point — and met my friends from the night before for breakfast. Over tostada and café con leche, we all made packs to return for more pilgrimages to Santiago in the future. Even though I had not known these people for long, I was surprised by the strength of the bond the Camino creates between people. Stephanie and I said goodbye to the others and we walked back up to the square together and joined a free walking group around the city. During the tour we learned about the significance of the Cathedral itself as well as our own (pilgrim) history.

While we had all intentions to continue with our tour group, we happened to see our Portuguese friends so we left the tour early to say hello. We then made plans to meet an half hour later for lunch at a café, so Stephanie and I decided to pay a visit to the Pilgrim Museum for a little bit. Afterwards, we enjoyed a final lunch with our companions, laughed, and reflected on our journey together on the Camino. Our friends gave both Stephanie and I tokens to remember them by and the incredible experience we had together.

One of their friends who was driving through Vigo on their way back home to Porto offered me a ride back after lunch was finished which I graciously accepted. After many heartfelt goodbyes, a few tears, and a short car ride later, I found myself back inside my apartment in Vigo.

Over the course of my Camino, I learned that that while your first Camino is done for yourself — to see the countryside, hike, and push your own limits—, all of your Caminos after will be for others —as to give them the same experience that was given to you by other pilgrims. As I had written above, I was beyond lucky to have met the incredibly caring people that I did along the Way. I made strong friendships within the matter of days which I hope to hold on to for many years to come.

While I may not have found God though hours upon hours of walking nor through a sudden epiphany, I was able to continuously find His messages and preachings through each and every person I met along the way. Maybe that is the true meaning of the Camino, to continue to give even when your feet are blistered, your back aches, and the weight on your shoulders pulls you down. I already know that my future holds another Camino. However, I also know the newfound weight that it carries. I am so excited to begin to plan my next route to Santiago and I cannot wait to see what it has in store for me.