It’s my first time in Morocco — and the continent of Africa as a matter of fact — and I have both of my friends, Kim and Cooper, by my side. Over the course of six days we planned to travel from Fez to Chefchaouen, Tangier, and Marrakech. It was a big itinerary that took a lot of planning on our part, but we were excited for the new experiences and challenges that came with it.
First Impressions ~ February 27th
After our days at work, we headed to the airport here in Sevilla to catch our evening flight to Fez. Everything went smoothly, however once we arrived at our destination, we had to stop and fill out extensive paperwork concerning the new Coronavirus outbreak. It concerned our recent travel destinations, our health at the moment, and where we were planning to travel to next. During our flight and in the airport I saw lots of people wearing masks — all of which I believe only contribute to the fear and misconceptions that come with the new virus.
Nevertheless, we left the airport to find that our taxi which I had coordinated with our hotel for the evening was out waiting. Our driver was very chatty and loved telling us all about the city of Fez and Morocco as a country. There were armed guards lining the main street that we drove along, but our driver reassured us that it was because of a very special occurrence — the King was in town! Driving further into the city center we got a better look at what typical life may be here in Fez. While the interspersed gutted buildings didn’t reassure a “well-to-do” economic stance, there were so many people outside enjoying the cool night air and colorful lights that lined the streets. Despite the clear lines of poverty we saw, all around us life seemed vibrant and dynamic.
Eventually we arrived at our hotel where we came to realize they didn’t have a reservation for us...even though they had sent us a taxi to pick us up. Even so with the mixup, they still had a similar room available to us for the night. As it was already quite late, we all settled in for the night and made preparations for our early bus ride to the Blue City of Chefchaouen. It was only just the beginning!
The city that BLUE me away ~ February 28th
Waking up in Fez our alarm clock sounded just as early as the first call to prayer resounding over the loudspeakers outside. Downstairs in the hotel’s lounge we were treated to a large buffet-style breakfast of dark olives, goat cheese, a type of think Moroccan pancakes called Beghrirs, and some delicious mint tea. Before leaving we also made some sandwiches to take with us on the bus for lunch — travel hack!
The bus station was just around the corner — as we had planned — and soon after boarded our CTM bus heading north into the mountains of Chefchaouen. After much research, I found that when traveling in Morocco the CTM company is one of the most trusted, affordable, and comfortable services in the country. Along with online recommendations from other travelers and our own experience, time and time again I would recommend CTM as the company to trust. The bus itself was nice, if a bit cramped, but I mostly enjoyed the countryside views along the way. From my window seat I saw there were a lot of family farms with even small children doing their part in supporting their family. When we drove through smaller towns I found there were a lot of open-air cafes — just like in Spain — and small markets lining the streets. Some of the more conservatively dressed men and women wore long loose-fitting robes with a short pointed hood called a Djellaba. However, the majority of men wore sporty jackets and pants, while women wore less fitted clothing and only some covered their heads with scarves.
Finally, after four hours on the bus, we curved around the mountain’s edge and reached the base of Chefchaouen. The small city seemed to be placed in a crook between the mountain’s steep walls. Immediately we all recognized the hilly challenges we were to face during our stay. To get to our hostel in the center of the Medina, Kim, Cooper, and I, hiked up the crazy steep hill and through the famously blue-walled maze of vendors to reach our hostel — Casa Amina. Our host who checked us in also brewed us some delicious mint tea as a welcome. He also gave us some great ideas of how to spend our time in the city.
Walking through the Medina — the old town area — we were struck by just how blue everything was! From the ground beneath our feet to the walls reaching above our heads, everything was painted in a magical shade of blue. Beginning our day, we first walked to the Grand Mosque in the center square called Uta el Hamman. Of course we weren’t able to enter the mosque, but it was very interesting to watch people come and go and the different customs there were upon doing so. The square itself was a very lively place with terraced restaurants, vendors, and locals enjoying the weather. We decided to again enter the maze of the Medina above to square to explore and further admire the city’s unique coloration.
At 3pm women’s hours began at the Al-Masluhi Hammam above the square. So, taking our host’s recommendation, Kim and I entered the traditional bath house. For 150 Moroccan Dirhams — or 15 euros — we had a traditional Hamma experience where we were to be bathed and cleaned as the locals have for hundreds of years. We were brought into the lower levels of the building which was heated from below and steamed the water being used. Kim and I sat on the floor next to the other women who were also bathing. They chatted with their friends and seemed to spend a long time socializing. Soon after the woman who had taken us downstairs into the bath came and began washing us with this black goop which was a type of soap. Then, using a very rough glove, she scrubbed us all over removing our dead skin. Apparently the tan I had been working on was just as easily washed away with this technique! Later she even gave us both a massage and even washed our hair. I have to say, while back home in my own culture this would be viewed as a very awkward experience — even a bit taboo — it was a great experience. I found that the normalness of it all made me feel confident in my own body and feel a closer connection to the other women there.
Upon leaving we realized it had been three hours since we had entered the Hammam! We rejoined with Cooper outside and we all went together for dinner at a restaurant with a beautiful terrace overlooking the square and valley below. The food — a lemon chicken tagine and beef couscous — and our hosts were outstanding. However, our unwanted table guests of the local cats had us fending off our delicious meals. Afterwards we took directions from our hosts outside the city gates and up the adjacent mountain side to the Spanish Mosque. The sunset from there was incredible as we watched the city’s blue tones grow darker as the sun disappeared. Kim, Cooper, and I, stayed until it was fully dark and the lights from the city once again illuminated the blue.
We returned to the center and spent some time in Uta el Hamman. Along the way we found some delicious sweets and savory snacks which we under a lone pine tree decorating the center of the square. We capped off the night with one more mint tea before heading back to our Raid for the evening.
Trading a blue city for a blue sea ~ February 29th
It’s a leap year and so today, an extra special addition to the year, must be equally as special! Waking up in our Raid we headed outside into the Medina to find something for breakfast. It took some time to find a place to settle as we kept getting lost in the maze of streets and endless stairs, but eventually we found a good spot. I do have to say, the round bread we found ever so popular here in Chefchaouen — and all around Morocco for that matter — was delicious! Always hot and freshly baked, we got some with every meal.
Afterwards, we walked back to the square and entered the Kasbah Palace. I was surprised to find inside that the region actually had a lot of Portuguese influence due to the later’s expansion during the 14th century. The palace consisted of a few watch towers, a dungeon, and a small garden in the center. Although it didn’t come to rival Andalucia’s Moorish Palaces, it was a great stop to come and learn about the region’s history.
We ate lunch down the hill outside of the Medina, however the view was worth the long trek outside the city walls. Shortly after finishing our meal, we returned to our Raid to gather our bags before walking downhill for the last time to the bus station. Our three hour ride further north to Tangier was filled with pretty mountain views and more quaint farms.
Once we arrived in Tangier we had to take a taxi up to the port near the Medina where our next hostel was located. After checking in, we began again wandering the streets lined with tons of vendors of all types and checking off many sights along the way. The city was quite industrial near the port with large cement-stone buildings — it almost reminded me of similar coastal stylings back in Vigo, Galicia.
Nearing dinner time, we all decided to try a hole in the wall...literally! The restaurant, called Le Saveur, served a set mediterranean-moroccan style menu. Inside there were only a few tables with a sink against the wall with an open kitchen for all to see. After a long wait, we got our table around 9pm and stayed almost until 11! The food was decadent. We had fish soup; a sizzling plate of squid and white fish; grilled shark skewers adoring a full fish; with a dessert of peanuts, walnuts, strawberries, and honey; and all served with the house’s homemade raisin drink. I’ll have to call that near to one of the best meals of my life. The owner even gave Kim and I a free set of plates made from clay and hand carved spoons and forks. What a meal...and what a memory! Stuffed and elated, we returned to our hostel for the night.
I can see Spain from here! ~ March 1st
Kim, Cooper, and I, had a delicious breakfast in our hostel — my favorite being a beetroot hummus — before heading out once again into the throws of the Medina. First we walked to St. Stephen’s church and it’s accompanying Sunday market. The Christian church is seemingly built to look like a mosque and embraces the mix of cultures and religions of the area. We spent some time walking around their small graveyard and learning about the many expats who had found their home and final resting place here in Tangier.
Afterwards, we walked through the accompanying market admiring the many foods and crafts being sold. Then we returned to the Medina, but instead we walked through it to the Kasbah neighborhood. There we entered the Kasbah museum which was located inside the Kasbah Palace on the cliff overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar. Inside we learned more about the great history of the area while admiring many Roman and Neolithic artifacts.
Continuing our trip up the coast we walked to a place called Café Hafa for lunch. Located on the point of the bay, we got some amazing views back at the city and at times we were even able to see Spain! On our way back to the Medina, we stopped to see the Phoenician tombs which were cut into the rock face along the ocean. Apparently their people had carved these tombs and then placed stone coffins inside...not a bad place to rest in my book!
We returned to the Medina where we began to kill time talking to vendors as they showed us their favorite things and curiosities. For the rest of the evening we relaxed and waited in our hostel until leaving for our 11:30pm night-train to Marrakech. Eventually we walked the waterfront to the train station which happened to be gorgeously modern. When it was time to board our train, we were shown to our own private cabins which had a bed, chair, and sink, in each — we were also given slippers and extra toiletries for the nige. I went to bed soon after filled with excitement and wonder as to what it would be like to wake up in an entirely different city.
Chicken Tangines & Snake Charmers ~ March 2nd
I woke up when we were approaching Marrakech and sat in my bed watching the truly desert landscape before me. I slept pretty well on the train — finally a night of travel I can get with! We arrived at 9am and upon disembarking we found out we had a free breakfast waiting for us in the station. One coffee and croissant later, we jumped into a cab and rushed to our 9:30am cooking class across town with no time to spare!
We arrived around the corner of our chef’s house in front of a small pharmacy on a very busy street along the city’s walls. There, we met up with a few others who were joining our class — a young guy from Australia and two couples from Belgium. Our chef and teacher for the day was named Najlae. Soon after meeting us, she ushered us over to the market stalls across the street. There she quickly put us to work as we learned how to spot the best ingredients for our meal. Arms laden with lamb, chicken, tomatoes, zucchini, parsely, green onions, eggplants, onions, strawberries, and oranges, we walked to her nearby family home. The first part of the class consisted of teaching us how to brew the perfect pot of tea — tip: always toss the first cup! We drank tea as we all introduced ourselves and snacked on some delicious breakfast treats. Then, it was time to cook! We prepared lamb with prunes, a couple hot salads, and a lemon-chicken tagine. I loved learning the process of preparing the meals and about the many spices involved in the meal. I also had a great time chatting with the others in our class and learning about interesting notes about their own countries.
Our teacher, Nejlae, was a very inspiring and unique young woman for someone living in such a conservative culture. She not only supported herself through this business, but also her other family members. She spoke a lot about the relationship between herself and her husband as well. Instead of him ruling her — as is the most common dynamic here — they choose to work as a team and as equals. She wore whatever clothes she wanted and told us that in giving these classes she learned so much more about other ways of life and the freedoms she strives to attain. To read more about the secret tips and tricks of moroccan cooking, follow this link to my other post:
Our class, much like all great experiences, seemed to end too early. Nevertheless, we still had so much more of the city to explore and come to know. We navigated to our hostel, La Madrassa, and were greeted with even more mint tea. After a few recommendations from our guide and host, we decided to take to the streets and do some exploring of our own. Kim, Cooper, and I, walked around the many markets near our hostel and I ended up purchasing some saffron and my very own silver tea pot — you could say I was inspired!
Along the way, we found ourselves in the main square of Jama El f’na where vendors sold food and trinkets of all types...all alongside snake charmers and owners with small monkeys.
We spent a long time walking around the market space and sipping on fresh orange juice until we returned to our hostel to rest. Back at our hostel we relaxed and rested for a while until the sun went down. We all went out to look for some street food for dinner, and although I wasn’t hungry, I enjoyed the nightlife. All of which was just, or maybe even more, vibrant as during the day. A good cap to our last night in Morocco.
Reunions & Rick Steves ~ March 3rd
My friend Johnathan from my time sailing with the Pelican of London was also staying in Marrakech at the time, so we both thought it would make for a perfect reunion. Kim and Cooper did their own thing which I met Johnathan for coffee and to catch up. Afterwards we toured both the Badhi and Bahia Palaces. The first of which was much older with unfortunately less preserved, but the second was tiled colorfully and had intricate carving and designs adorning the palace walls. However, each were equally as impressive. I was surprised when Johnathan told me he was having a hard time here in Marrakech. He didn’t like the place one bit saying it was too busy and crowded for his liking. But my experience had been just the opposite — I was thriving in these bustling cities! All the hustle and bustle only amplified my experience in this wild, colorful, and lively country. Nevertheless I was glad that he was around so we could catch up and maybe even give him a break. After saying goodbye I returned to the hostel around noon where Kim and Cooper soon after joined me. From there, we all shared a taxi from the main square to the airport.
“Travel is the death of ignorance.”
Rick Steves, my travel idol, once said that and I can’t think of a better phrase to use when reaccounting about my experience in Morocco. Sure, there was poverty and obvious hustlers to be seen, but there was also so much beauty and modernity to be found. Whether it was in the Hamman bath house or in chef Nejlae’s living room, I was constantly impressed by the people living here. When I found myself shying away from these experiences, only a little bit of courage to step outside of my comfort zone taught me so much about what I was missing. I believe a lot of people have misconceptions about Morocco — some at times do have a glimmer of truth to them —, but I’ve found that only through communicating with the people living there can I come to understand why those beliefs exist and, more importantly, of the beauty that lies just underneath the surface. I would love to return again to Morocco to further break down my own ignorance and biases. I think only though travel and by putting yourself into uncomfortable situations can you really grow and become a better citizen of the world.
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