Four cities, three countries, two friends, and one New Year! I couldn’t have asked for a better way to begin 2020 and I am so excited to share all the details right here. Kim and I had a big trip ahead of us going into the holiday season. We planned to visit Prague, Hallstatt, Vienna, and Budapest, all within twelve days. So, with our backpacks and long itinerary ahead of us, we set off on what would be a vacation neither of us would soon forget!
Prague, Czech Republic — December 21-24
In a nutshell, Prague was a city to inspire even the most dream-like fairy tales. During our stay, Kim and I resided around the corner from the Old Town Square. At the time, the area was housing a large Christmas Market under the tall towers of the Týn Church, which is rumored to be the inspiration behind Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty Castle. Like most of our travels, we joined a walking tour the first morning of our stay in order to get our bearings and learn a bit of history along the way. A few of the more notable sights in Prague we viewed on our tour included their famous Astronomical Clock from 1410 which not only told the time, but also displayed the zodiac, days of the year, and an animatronic show of the Twelve Apostles on the hour; the University of Prague where great minds like Einstein once taught; the Jewish Quarter which was “preserved” during the Nazi occupation to act as an “open air museum of the extinct Jewish race”; and the Rudolfinum Music Hall which is home to the famous Czech Philharmonic. Kim and I spent our first day in Prague exploring the east side of the river and enjoying the many Christmas Markets around the city.
The rest of our time in this magical city came with surprises and more beauty to be found down every alley! The west side of the river can be described with steep hills, however it holds many treasures if you know where to look. Kim and I especially enjoyed the vibrant Lennon Wall which brightened our drizzly and overcast day. A tribute to John and The Beatles, the mural spreads the message of love and acceptance. From there, we continued up the hill to the Prague Castle built in 870, headed north to a beer garden overlooking the city, and then to lunch at the Red Lion Hotel and Restaurant. We ordered their daily special of potato soup, beef goulash with dumplings, and apple cake. Kim and I loved the restaurant especially for its food, but also for its low, wood-beam ceilings which made it a cosy place to enjoy our meal. Then, to perfectly tie up our final hours in Prague, we returned to the Rudolfinum that evening to see the Prague Vivaldi Ensemble. Some songs, most by Vivaldi and a few by Mozart, I recognized, but many were entirely new! It was an impressive concert and special addition to our already amazing trip.
Hallstatt, Austria — December 24-26
We left Prague on our 10am train connecting in Linz towards our final destination of Hallstatt! We spent the majority of our day zipping across the Austrian countryside, but were constantly gifted incredible views from our second-class seats. Kim and I had chosen Hallstatt as our location to spend Christmas for its natural beauty and village-like charm. So, we were a bit disappointed to arrive among thickening clouds and in the middle of a downpour. Nevertheless, our Christmas Eve in Hallstatt began by boarding a small ferry to take us across the lake in order to reach our adorable bed-and-breakfast — the Gasthaus Simony. We toured the village in search of the perfect hot chocolate before ending the night with snacks and a movie in bed.
The remainder of our time in Hallstatt didn’t go exactly as we had hoped. The weather had previously turned from snow to days of continuous rain and dark clouds, obstructing every chance to reveal the tall alpine peaks above us. Despite the rain, Kim and I made the most of our holiday. I do have to say, every moment since we had arrived had been filled with kindness and cheer. We went on a wet hike above the village to get a closer view of the waterfall, found shelter in a gazebo, and walked the quiet trails before heading below to settle inside a restaurant near the water for some coffee and Austrian pancakes. That night, Kim and I sat down for our dinner reservation at the Seewirt Zauner Hotel and Restaurant. We ordered a mixed grill plate to share which had every part of an animal on it with rice and vegetables on the side. The manager and waitress working there were both very kind and attentive, and genuinely wanted to hear about our travels. Full, and more importantly happy, we ended Christmas night in high spirits.
Just like last year, not being home for Christmas and being able to spend it with family was hard. However, being able to spend it this year with Kim made it very special. I think that we are very lucky to have one another especially during these times away from home and family. Nevertheless, I think being away from home makes me realize just how special these times were. I would never have given up the opportunity of this experience, but it does make me realize just how special and magical the holidays can be with family by my side.
Now, although we did not have a White Christmas, another miracle just as magical did occur. Just hours before we left to catch our ferry and subsequent train to Vienna, the clouds lifted and gave us the most glorious views that attracted me to the site in the first place! I stumbled around the village in wonder with my head tilted up to the peaks. So, filled with emotion — and maybe having shed a few tears in gratitude to this powerful space — we boarded our ferry and set out on our next adventure.
Vienna, Austria — December 26-29
Kim and I really only had one day in Vienna, so it was our mission to see and do all that we could in our time allowed. Our walking tour — always a necessity in my book — took us all around the city seeing sights such as the State Opera House, the Hofburg Palace, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the Spanish Riding School, and much more. My favorite part of the tour was how the guide carried with her old photographs of the places we were visiting in order to help us envision the events, some tragic, to have occurred there. We spent our time ducking into their infamous “intellectual cafés”, having served many of the great minds of history; and enjoying the sights and smells of the many Christmas — now New Year’s — Markets around the city. However, I found St. Stephen’s Cathedral to be the most surprising part of our time in Vienna. When we arrived at the Cathedral we were awed by its beautiful mosaic roof and intricate gothic details. However, upon entering we found the inside to be just as intricate as the outside. It was stunningly decorated and a bit dark, although never gloomy. I think it was easily bumped up to my Top 3! Even though it was quite crowded, St. Stephen’s was undeniably a very special place. That evening, after a delicious Austrian take on a hot dog, we took a recommendation from a family we met in Hallstatt to buy 10 euro standing tickets to see an opera. On set for that night was the opera version of Hansel and Gretel. While it was quite easy to follow along with the classic Grimm tale, Kim and I agreed in that Hansel and Gretel may not have been the best story to adapt into an opera. At the very least the production was...odd. Notwithstanding, it was such an unexpected and interesting experience!
While we did have a couple days in Vienna, Kim and I decided to head up into the hills to get the full Austrian experience. We were able to get our hands on a shuttle, rental, and lift tickets, for the Stuhleck Ski Resort about an hour outside of Vienna. While Kim was already an avid skier back home, it was my first time snowboarding in 8 years! However, we were given amazing conditions to spend the day full of powder, good views of the charming village below, and only a few bumps and bruises. We spent our day around mid-mountain using a smaller lift which literally pulled us up the mountain. The lift was tricky to learn, but after having been drug or simply fallen off the thing a couple times, we began to ride like the locals.
Not looking too bad!
Budapest, Hungary — December 29 - January 2
Regardless of our tired muscles, Kim and I were determined to not let them slow us down. Our first morning in Budapest led us on — you guessed it! — another walking tour of the city. We met our group on the edge of the Jewish District where our guide first walked us through the city’s history and events of great misleadings that often led them to choose the wrong side of history — first with Nazi occupation and then being led under communist regimes. From there, we weaved between New Year’s markets leading us past St. Stephen’s Basilica, over the famous Chain Bridge, the Castle District, the Royal Palace, the beautifully tiled roof of Matthais Church, and the truly Turkish style of the Fisherman’s Bastion. I found it most interesting to learn what the name “Budapest” actually meant. Over the tour, our guide kept saying that we were either on the Buda or the Pest side. Buda, to the east, was named for the Slavic word “voda” for water, while Pest was named “peshchera” for oven or cave. While the two sides of the city were not united until 1873, the name of Budapest unites the two strongest entities of the region defined by thermal activity and power. Kim and I extended our tour on our own over the next couple days to visit the Cave Church, Central Market, House of Terror, the Parliament Building, the Shoes, and a few very unique bars along the way. We even made sure to spend an entire day relaxing from our travels inside of the Rudas -- one of Budapest’s most famous thermal bath houses and spas.
On New Year’s Eve, Kim and I joined a couple of other girls who were staying in the same hostel as us to take to the crazy streets of Budapest. We walked down to the Danube river for the best views of the night and stopped for some hot wine to warm our hands as we waited. All around us, people were having fun in the streets celebrating the coming turn of the decade and of course setting off tons of fireworks! One of the girls we were out with asked all of us what our best moment from the past year was. I was surprised how quickly my answer came to mind, but it was actually quite simple. My best moment from 2019 was the one that both challenged and surprised me in all the best ways possible — sailing with the Pelican. Never having done something like that before, I jumped with a full heart and actually ended up loving what I did. It wasn’t easy, but the experiences, friends, and work, made it all worth it. I think something like that takes a lot of bravery — and I was very nervous for it — but it turned out to be one of the best experiences of my life. 2019 also brought me to 10 new countries and 2 incredible caminos. It brought me closer to who I am, who I want to be, and to those that make my life brighter. So, with all of the in my heart and in my memories I entered the New Year, the new decade, with aspirations of MORE.
Impressions
What a long and wild trip that I had the absolute luck to spend with my best friend. Kim and I seem to travel really well together, and while we may not always be on the same page, we always figure it out. Three countries in twelve days was a stretch to be sure, but I would not have missed it for the world! We saw some truly spectacular things; got into nature; saw art in motion; spent Christmas in my very own version of paradise; rang in the New Year with proud reflections of the past; drank lots of beer; and tasted the best food that the Czech Republic, Austria, and Hungary, had to offer. Prague was a Disney Princess tale, Hallstatt was Heaven, Vienna brought us to the slopes, and Budapest was a time for reflection. I could not have asked for more.
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