A Cruise to the Coast

Today, Jennie, Kim, and I went on our first of many roommate trips. This time we found ourselves on a boat headed south on the Río Guadalquivir. With the plan to reach the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda in the early afternoon, we planned to spend the rest of our day exploring this historically significant pueblo. While on a stroll with my au pair family earlier in the summer, they recommended this trip to me as a way to see the Andalusian countryside from a new perspective. So, armed with our tickets and warm jackets, we boarded our ride just below the Torre del Oro in the heart of Sevilla. 

It turned out to be quite a cold morning on the river. However, regardless of the chill, we sat up top as we passed by grassy plains and marshes; through one river lock; and saw many different species of birds resting on the banks. My favorite part of the long ride was watching the local fishermen along the edges of the river and in their own boats hoping for a big catch. Around five hours -- maybe two hours too long -- we finally arrived just outside Sanlúcar and were transported ashore by a smaller barge which took us right up onto the beach. 

While all of us were excited to start exploring, our stomachs ached for food. So, half-jogging up the beach, we made our way to a popular-looking beach bar along the waterfront. Although the day was still considerably cooler and breezier than what we had expected, our table inside the tent kept us very comfortable while still allowing us a great view. Kim still hadn’t had the chance to try many traditional Andalusian dishes that I keep so close to my heart, so we started off by splitting a course of gazpacho and salmorejo before devouring a large plate of pescado frito. Our meal seemed to pass quickly with great conversation and excitement of the day yet to come, but we soon found ourselves scrambling for time to actually see the rest of the town! 

Not wanting to waste any more of our precious time on a long walk to the center of Sanlúcar we split a cheap taxi which dropped us off in the heart of the pueblo. Walking around, we were disappointed to find that many of the monuments, churches, and parks we had hoped to visit were closed. Nevertheless, we did get to peek inside a few and admire their architectural beauty. We spent the rest of our time wandering the crossing and curving cobblestone streets of the center on foot. I was very much surprised to have encountered so many Manzanilla Bodegas and producers within this small town. Now I’ll have to keep my eye out for Barrameda Manzanilla on my supermarket shelves. 

While Sanlúcar de Barrameda’s claim to fame today may be in their production of Manzanilla, the town is better known for its historical significance. In fact, Sanlúcar is where Magellan left and returned to after his first expedition of sailing around the world. All around the historical center of the town, you can easily feel their people’s pride and nautical reverence which is depicted through their architecture, statues, carvings, and mosaics -- my personal favorite were the ship wheels decorating the main entrance of the Parroquia de la O. 

Even though it was not a very exciting day due to unexpected closures, it did turn into a relaxing and perfect time to bond with Kim and Jennie. We ate great food, explored, and strolled down the magical -- and at times musical -- streets. Maybe we had bad timing when it came to the attractions, but I can say for certain that we did not have a bad time. As our hours dwindled into the evening, we all made sure to grab a couple scoops of ice cream before heading back to the beach to catch our 7pm bus back to Sevilla.